Crafting your very own raglan jumper can be both a rewarding and enjoyable experience, but the construction process can sometimes seem like a daunting puzzle. I have only recently learnt myself, and it was nowhere near as difficult as I had imagined! It is so easy once you get into it, and the construction is stunning, with no seams and barely any ends to tie in. You can also transfer the piece to a long cable to try it on as you go. This is so helpful as you can't usually do this when knitting flats, and it ensures a perfect fit. If you are uncertain about a raglan or want to refine your technique, this blog post will guide you through mastering the art of raglan jumper construction.
Understanding Raglan Shaping Techniques
Raglan Construction Basics: Raglan sleeves are a popular choice for jumpers due to their seamless design that extends from the collar to the underarm. This unique construction technique eliminates the need for shoulder seams, providing a flattering and more relaxed fit for greater ease of movement. This construction can be seen in the diagram below; the increases radiate from the neckline at 4 points.
Casting On: To calculate the number of stitches to cast on, knit a tension swatch and then work out how many stitches will be required to fit around the neck (and over the head). This stitch number may need to be adapted slightly as the stitches need to be split up and marked to separate the front/back and sleeves in the correct ratio.
Stitch Marking: Each diagonal raglan line will be 2 stitches wide so deduct 8 from the total stitch number. From the number of remaining stitches, 1/3 should be used for the front, 1/3 for the back and 1/6 each for the sleeves. So the sleeves should start having half the number of stitches as the front and back. Stitch markers can be placed on the first row; they can either be placed in between the 2 raglan stitches, or 2 markers can be placed on either side of these 2 stitches
Traditional Increase Method: Typically, raglan shaping involves increasing along the raglan line to create a distinctive diagonal sleeve. You can achieve a smooth and structured raglan line by working these increases at specific intervals. The easiest way is to start by knitting 1 row and then work increases on every other row until the desired length is reached.
Splitting Body and Sleeves: Once the garment has been tried on and reaches the armpit, it is time to split the main body and sleeves to be worked separately. Each section needs to be split between the 2 raglan stitches and some stitches cast on under the arm.
Working Body and Sleeves: The sleeves can be held on waste yarn while you continue to knit the body in the round until the desired length is reached. The body can be shaped with some decreases or just worked straight down. Then, each sleeve can be picked up and knitted to the desired length. Again, it can be shaped with decreases or just worked straight down.
Tips for Raglan Construction
Stitch Marker Placement: Stitch markers are crucial in keeping track of your raglan shaping. Strategically placing markers at key intervals can help you stay on track and maintain symmetry in your project.
Designing with Increases: The raglan lines can be accentuated as a design feature, either by intentionally using increase methods that create holes or adding another decorative element like a cable
Neck Shaping: A basic raglan doesn't need neck shaping but if you want to elevate your design then you can shape the neck for a better fit. This can be achieved by working short rows in the round or starting off knitting backwards and forwards and working increases before switching to working in the round.
Blocking Magic: Don't underestimate the power of blocking. After completing your raglan jumper, blocking can enhance the overall shape and drape of the garment, refining the finished look.
Choosing the Right Yarn for Your Project
Fibre Selection: When selecting yarn for your raglan jumper, consider both the aesthetic and practical aspects of different fibre types. Merino wool offers warmth and softness, while cotton yarn is ideal for breathable and lightweight garments.
Weight Matters: The weight of the yarn will influence the drape and texture of your jumper. Worsted weight yarn is a versatile choice for raglan construction, providing a balance between warmth and stitch definition. A particularly heavy yarn may make the jumper very weighty and pull downwards, putting stress on the neck and shoulders.
Colour Co-ordination: Experiment with colour combinations to elevate your raglan jumper. Whether you opt for tonal hues or bold contrasts, the right colour palette can enhance the design details of your project. Stripes work particularly well as they follow the raglan shaping around the neck beautifully.
Mastering raglan jumper construction opens up a world of creative possibilities, allowing you to craft personalised garments with a seamless finish. By familiarising yourself with different shaping techniques, embracing seamless construction methods, and carefully selecting the perfect yarn, you can embark on a journey of creativity and craftsmanship.
I hope this has helped you learn more about raglan knitting, or even just boosted your confidence! We would love to see what you're making so tag us on Instagram @craftyllama, and let us know how your raglans are going!
Happy knitting!
Jonah
